The journey to Ubon was one of familiar difficulties. Shortly after the expedition began ascending the Se Moun they encountered rapids.
By January 2, 1867, however, progress was no longer impeded, and the French party moved on easily, reaching Ubon on January 7. The settlement was in Garnier’s terse description, “too large for a village and yet still not a town.” But it was strikingly more lively than any population center the group had seen since leaving Phnom Penh six months before. There was more than one street, and two of the settlement’s pagodas were built in brick rather than mud.
The local ruler, again a “king”, was affable and ready to help them.